It’s huge and it’s boxy, but this humidifier is designed to humidify an entire house–up to 2,500 square feet. Using an evaporative scheme and unheated, natural, evaporated water, this humidifier requires less energy than warm mist or steam units. You likewise won’t have to deal with white dust, spray, or mist on furniture or floors. Other gains of the evaporative system include: relief from sensations or changes of arid skin, itchy eyes, chapped lips, and scratchy throat; it prevents plants and furniture from getting overly dry; and scaled down static electricity protects computers and electronics. This humidifier’s water bottle holds 5 gallons and disperses up to 12 gallons of water per day, refilling effortlessly and neatly in the sink by way of an included hose. Cleaning the rest of the appliance is just as simple: the power unit lifts off the top of the humidifier for easy cleaning and servicing, while the evaporative wick, which filters out solid homogeneous inorgani substance deposits, likewise lifts out for replacing. Controls are concealed behind a panel on the top of the unit. Select a preferent humidity from the humidistat dial and this model will mechanically turn itself on and off to maintain the chosen humidity level. In addition, the humidifier’s fan offers three settings. This humidifier measures 24 by 13-1/2 by 22 inches, with casters on the bottom for easy rolling from room to room. Bemis covers this unit underneath a one-year fixed warranty. –Cristina Vaamonde
Whole House Humidifier
Console style whole house evaporative humidifier, contemporary style, full-size performance in a midsize humidifier. Midsize makes this humidifier popular, automatic humidistate maintains optimun humidity level, refill light, automatic shutoff, 12 gallons of output per day, humidifies 2500 sq ft. 3-speed fan ,5.0 gal water-holding capacity, easy-fill water bottle with refill hose, Bemis patented super wick, removebale power pack for easy cleaning, ez-roll casters, 24×131/2×22, 22.5lbs. Color-Oak Burl
A whole house humidifier or furnace mounted whole house humidifier is just another example of an exceedingly neglected element of our house – on top of a brick chimney, an attic, and a crawlspace, which fall into the same basket.
If you’re not going to maintain it, it’s probably a bad idea to get a whole house humidifier. Since it is attached to a forced air heating system that constantly circulates air allround the house, poor maintenance may invent surroundings attracting mold growth and support reproduce of dust mites.
Properly operating and preserving a whole house humidifier helps us relieve numerous physical discomforts affiliated with cold / arid weather, including respiratory troubles and arid skin and lips. It also lowers or totally does away with static electricity, cosmetic wall trim separations, cracks in finishes, separating hardwood floor boards, etc. The trick is to remainder the amount of moisture in your home at such a level which will gain your health, living environment, and save energy rather of creating conditions which now and again cause mold or other biological organism growth (excessive moisture could do that). And for proper humidity balancing, you either have to observe and monitor your environment, or buy an electronic device which will do it for you. In general, the humidity in your house will have to not exceed 50% (35% – 50% is the most comfortable). Higher levels will normally formulate condensation on windows, at times on walls and ceiling surfaces, or possible mold and mildew growth.
No matter how innovative the whole house humidifier scheme installed on your property is – it will require regular maintenance because it won’t work the right way or at all without it. The truth is – I seldom see one decently maintained or even operating at all.
There are fundamentally 5 types of whole house humidifiers:
Flow-Through (bypass) Whole House Humidifiers (passive and fan assisted) – they use a so-called water pad made out of foam, expanded aluminum, and a good deal of other materials. The water drips on top of the square pad and the air from the heating scheme flowing through the pad picks up the water atoms and carries them through the air ducts and around the house. The remaining water (whatever wasn’t picked up by the air) drains through the base of the whole house humidifier.
A whole house humidifier’s water pad has to be substituted once a year before each cold season to carry out expeditiously and to prevent mold growth. For the homes utilizing private well or other roots with high levels of minerals, cleaning might be required more often.
For each gallon of water evaporated into humidity, Whole House Flow-Through Humidifiers waste amidst 5-8 gallons down the drain.
Drum Whole House Humidifiers – they have a drum shaped rotating frame (powered by a small, low voltage motor) and a foam or fabric sleeve pulled over it. The bottom section of the drum is always submerged in water which keeps the rotating foam / fabric moist and allows air flowing through the drum to pick up that moisture. The foam / fabric and the water in a little reservoir underneath the drum require regular maintenance! If you leave that water standing in an unused humidifier (for example for the duration of the summer), and then just commence the whole house humidifier unit without cleaning it first, I guarantee that you’ll be disseminating mold spores through the entire house.
Wick Type Whole House Humidifiers – gathered out of a little reservoir and a filter (wick) that absorbs water from it. The entire humidifier is mounted inside the air duct, and in order to inspect it, you have to unscrew the cover plate and remove the entire unit – I don’t commended it, is cheap and easy to install, but that’s all.
Spray Mist Whole House Humidifiers - as the name suggests, they spray water mist into the air duct and the mist is picked up by the flow through the air duct. Don’t even consider this type if your house’s water supply is a private or community well – it will contaminate the spray head immediately. Those are one of the most inexpensive and easiest to install types out of all the whole house humidifiers.
Steam Whole House Humidifiers – being the most costly to buy / install and not that cheap to operate, it comprises of progressed engineering science and elaborated designs. Steam whole house humidifier might operate with or independently from your system heat cycle. Whenever the humidity drops beneath the setting, they will activate your furnace blower and get the humidity to the right level independently from the thermostat settings. One of the known difficulties affiliated with this type of the whole house humidifier is that the water propagated with cold air (with operating furnace blower only / no heat) does not totally evaporate. Condensing on the air duct cold walls might once in a while cause bacteria and mold growth. If you like new widgets and don’t mind spending numerous severe cash for it – go in front – but it sill does require maintenance.
One more type of a Flow – Through type humidifier but this time almost 100% effective (as claimed by the manufacturer).
Rotary Disc Furnace Mount Whole House Humidifier by Desert Spring: To be honorable with you, I can’t say much with regards to it except for relaying info from the manufacturer’s website, forums, and discussion boards. It sounds outstanding because it is (as claimed by the manufacturer)
- the most effective furnace-mount humidifier on the market
- 100% effective – 1:1 conversion of water to humidity
- uses only 4 Watts/hr of energy
- drain-less system – there’s no need for a drain in your utility room / furnace emplacement area
- very little maintenance with Auto-Flush accessory (you may do it manually each few days, depending on usage, solid homogeneous inorgani substances would only need to be got rid of each month or two in most regions of North America)
- never needs filters or pads substitute – uses self cleaning polycarbonate discs (non-absorbent plastic)
As with each product, there are those who love it and hate it.
Whole House Humidifier Maintenance:
- Check your humidifier unit visually on a regular basis (it’s hard to do not forget it specially if your whole house humidifier has been mounted in the crawlspace or attic area)
- Make sure that there’s no water dripping from the whole house humidifier itself and any of it is constituents (water supply line, drain line, shutoff valve, enclosure, area beneath the unit, or furnace itself)
- Replace the whole house humidifier water pad / evaporator pad / filter / foam on seasonal basis (or more ofttimes if required). Make sure that you re-assemble everything in the right way to prevent water leaks
- Clean the whole house humidifier constituents contaminated with solid homogeneous inorgani substance deposits after the heating season ends – it will be much more comfortable to do it when everything is still wet and soft. You may use 50/50 vinegar-water solution for heavier contaminated components. Just soak them for 15-30 minutes (or longer if necessary) and that ought to aid with cleaning.
Whole House Humidifier Picture
Whole House Humidifier Pic
Whole House Humidifier Pic
Whole House Humidifier Picture
Most helpful client reviews
81 of 84 people found the following review helpful.
 Works great — until it breaks!
By T. Miller
I like the design and operation of this humidifier. In fact, I have two of them. Ace Hardware gave me extra-fast deliverance — no complaints with Ace. The machines humidify very efficiently, put out a lot of moisture, and (unlike a great deal of others) are reasonably easy to maintain. Normally it will run fine on low or medium fan settings. Forget when it comes to the high fan speed; it sounds like a helicopter taking off.
The original one I purchased worked fine some of the time, but in general would not begin up again after the humidistat controller mechanically shut it off. Through much trial and error, I figured out that you have to center the wick incisively on it is hanger rail that runs along the inside of the water chamber so the float aligns correctly. Great — problem solved, altho poorly explained in the brief instruction sheet.
Then, at the beginning of the second winter arid season here on the high plains, the motor begun to squeal, seize, and stop, in particular at low speeds. On high, it would tardily commence and then scream for a while and in the end run — except it practically shook the unit detached and made it dance along the floor. After a day or so, it would no longer get started at all. Clearly the bearings in the motor were shot.
I was regarding to junk it, when I thought to check the warranty. Sure enough, the warranty ran for a year. I had eight days left!!
I contacted Essick Air by way of email and a very nice client service rep put me onto the person in charge of the warranty work. This second person sent form emails that were curt and blunt, but, in fairness, did address my problem. Getting the return papers could not be done thru email, and took with regards to two weeks to arrive by snail mail.
Alas, I would have to return the fan power head (they call it the “chassis”) to them for repair. This, even altho an authorized repair shop here in Denver is less than a half-mile from my condo.
I purchased a big shipping box, packed the unit well, and lugged it on my back five blocks to UPS. $33.00 to send it to the factory (in Georgia, I think?), but they promised to reimburse me (and did).
About a month later, with no communication, the chassis arrives back here in my firstborn packing, repaired with a new motor. However, I open the carton, take out the chassis, and it falls apart in my hands! Yup, it’s repaired, but not screwed back together. The screws are lying loose in the bottom of the box and all four screw holes are stripped. The electronics have fallen out and are dangling from their wires.
The prospect of sending it back yet again is now so daunting that I take it into my little work closet and in truth reassemble it myself, more or less, and screw it together with larger screws. It was one of those two-hour deals where you wish you were four-handed with long, narrow, double-jointed fingers. I have no idea if all the inside pieces are back in their actual slots or not, but it seems to work OK for now. Pray it does not catch on fire galore day.
I contacted Essick Air’s client service rep just to tell them regarding the poor repair and got a very passionate apology and a promise to take it up with higher-ups and get back to me. I did not ask for it, but thought I might genuinely get a new “chassis” out of the deal. I’m not actually comfortable with my backyard fix job.
Of course, after that I heard not one thing ever again. The higher ups had plainly ducked the problem.
Maybe it’s the fact that I am a retired merchandising executive and recognise better myself, but it amazes me that a national company with a widely known and esteemed brand name would not treat me a little better when fulfilling the terms of a warranty. The client service person could not have been nicer, but after that the treatment was suspicious, curt, abrupt, and, well, unsophisticated.
The documents I was sent were full of warnings and self-protective disclaimers, but showed little concern for my broken product or my work returning it: if they found that I did not in truth have a warranty claim, I would have to compensate for shipping both ways ($33.00 out, and, were I so ridiculous to want a broken fan unit, another $33.00 back). Or I could pay for repairs in advance.
All this “attitude” and they had not even looked at my problem yet. The unit as I described it to them was beauteous without doubt or question broken, it was evidently a burnt out motor bearing, it will have to have happened more than once. I felt strongly that they were attempting to get me to give up on the warranty. The whole approach implied that I was nuts for even bothering them and in all likelihood attempting to cheat them. All this for a $10 motor!
From my point of view, of course, it’s with regards to a $150 item that ought to last longer than a year. Much longer.
Oh, yeah, that second one I bought? It arrived, brand new, with a squeak in the fan that even I may listen — and I’m partly deaf. Not rather piercing sufficient to send back though, so we use it on a lower floor. Could never use it in the bedroom. Other than the squeak, it works great. Will it last a year? Stay tuned!
39 of 42 people found the following review helpful.
 A very good Humidifier
By A
Have used two of the Bemis H 12, 3 speed Humidifier, now for two years. They are very having little impact to use & require very little care, except for & occasional cleaning. Must replace the Wick & the back Air Filter each year, to keep it working well. Also ought to receive one good cleaning per year, inside, as much dust will get on all surfaces in & around the fan area. They seem very well maitain the desired humidty level, as I have good Humidstats in rooms, to give indication of where settings ought to be for variences caused by outside air temp, which mainly affects amount of water needed, to be added to room air. Just got a new 1045 Super Wick, when I put it on, I found that it did not have the little bracket on the top, left side to slide the little guide that holds the water level rod (that goes up & down with level, to show when filling is needed. This made it hard to put the top back on, as rod would not stay in place, and had to “Duct Tape” to make it stay & line up with switch, where it slides into switch depression. Don’t recognise if this was just an error, or if this is not put on replacment Wicks any longer. This is a good Humidifier & would sure commend it to anyone, to undertake & buy.
A Satisfied .
23 of 24 people found the following review helpful.
Bemis H12-400 3-Speed Evaporative Console Humidifier
By Elisa H. Coleman
Very few humidifiers work as well as the Bemis. I would commend it to everyone. There is one cautionary note: Be sure to check the tank and reservoir each day. Five gallons of water do not last very long,so pay attention. This way the proprietor will have good, clean humidity. The unit is easy to take apart and clean.
See all 59 client reviews…
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